If a ladder isn’t available, you may have to get creative to reach a second story window. Is there a fire escape you could climb? A trellis? A tree? Whatever you use, make sure it’s stable before climbing. [2] X Research source Casement windows (side-hinged windows) may be easy to pry open with your fingers or a thin tool if they aren’t locked.
A flathead screwdriver will work best, but if you’re handed a Phillips head (cross slot) screwdriver, give it a shot anyway. This technique can be effective for removing or partially prying open door windows. Even a small gap may allow you to reach inside and open the lock.
Check the corner of the window to see whether the vertical (up and down) beading overlaps the horizontal (left and right). Remove the overlapping beading first. Removing the beading may deform it. In some cases, beading can be quite expensive. Keep this in mind before attempting entry in this way. Depending on your situation, you may be able to leave the beading in place and still lever the window free. Some windows may not even have beading. [3] X Research source
If your window has only partially popped free of the mounting, try to reach either a set of keys, the lock, or the door handle. If there’s any broken glass, be incredibly careful. Jagged glass may be sharper than you think. In the event of a deep cut, treat the wound as best you can and see a doctor, if necessary.
A dead bolt is often located above or below the handle. If the handle moves but the door doesn’t open, the dead bolt is locked and you’ll need to try a different method. [6] X Research source This method will be much less likely to work on modern locks, which are designed to be less vulnerable to unlocking with a plastic card. Handles attached to a spring latch will “spring” back to their original position after you turn them.
Laminated cards tend to work best. These cards are bendy and can be inserted more easily between the door and its frame.
If there’s molding on the frame, there will be less space between the door and frame, making this process more difficult. In these cases, you may want to try another method to prevent costly damage.
Feel around with the bottom corner of your card a little bit. You should feel the angled part of the latch facing towards you. If the sloped side of the latch isn’t facing you, you’ll need to slide a long piece of plastic behind the latch to work it from the angled side. [9] X Research source
This may take a bit of maneuvering. Try different positions until you find one that allows the card the most purchase on the lock mechanism. Although this won’t be necessary for some latches, it may help open the door if you turn the knob lightly with your free hand disengaging the latch. [11] X Research source
Borrow these items from a neighbor or snag them from your tool shed. If your car is open, you might have some emergency tools there, too. The kind of screwdriver you need will depend on the kind of door you have. Knobs and hinges are often fastened with Phillips head (cross slot) screws. Even if you don’t have a screwdriver available, you may be able to remove fasteners with a suitably thin, sturdy tool, like a butter knife or a bent pin.
Depending on the kind of lock installed in your door, you may be able to disengage the lock immediately after removing the knob, or you may need to remove a secondary mounting plate. Some knobs may only have a screw fastening the knob to the spindle that both knobs are attached to. To remove these, loosen the screw on the metal connecting the knob to the door. [13] X Research source
In some situations, you may find that fastening hardware for knobs, like screws and bolts, are only accessible from the inside. [14] X Research source
The hinge pins may be stiff when you remove them, even after they’ve been partially pushed out with a nail. For easier removal, use a screwdriver like a chisel under the rim of the pin head to pop it free. Much like knobs, doors that are well-installed may not have outside accessible hinge pins. You won’t be able to easily pop the door off its hinges if this is the case for you. [15] X Research source
You may be able to jump a light sliding glass door by prying up and outward with a flathead screwdriver (or two), but a prybar or crowbar will work best. Be careful when trying to get your door to jump its track. If it falls, it could cause expensive damage. To make sliding doors in your home less vulnerable to break ins, you may want to secure your door with a security bar, like a wooden dowel. [16] X Research source
Even thin wire, like the kind use in electrical work, can be doubled up for improved stiffness and used to open your garage door. [17] X Research source
If possible, double up the wire of the coat hanger to make it sturdier. This may only be possible if you have an extra hanger or leftover wire.
You may find it easier to insert the rod from the sides, but it’ll need to be in the center of the door to disengage its lock. Be careful when doing this if there is a soft plastic molding around the door. Inserting your rod between the molding and the door could cause damage it, which can be expensive to replace. [18] X Research source
Many garage door releases have a string attached so you can pull and disengage the release from inside the garage. Use this string as a point of reference when looking for the release. If you can’t see into your garage, feel along the door’s metal track toward the opener motor. When you feel a ridge poking out of the track to the rear of the motor, you’ve found the release.
