If the chain is disconnected, grab the loose end and slide a link onto the hook at the end of the handle arm. The tank water is fresh, not toilet water, so don’t worry about reaching into it. When you flush the toilet, the handle arm pulls the flush chain and lifts the flapper, which allows water to flow into the bowl from the tank.
With the tank cover off, jiggle the handle and see if handle arm inside the tank pulls the chain enough to lift the flapper. If the chain is loose, detach it from the hook at the end of the handle arm. Hook a chain link onto the arm so there’s less than 2 links of slack on the chain when the flapper is down. The chain shouldn’t be so taught that it pulls the flapper up when the handle is in the normal position.
The flapper might need a quick adjustment. If shifting it fixes the seal, the toilet will stop running and it’ll flush normally. If the chain came loose, it might have gotten stuck under the flapper and prevented it from sealing properly. If the flapper is worn, it won’t fit into its seating properly, and you’ll need to replace it.
If lifting the flapper doesn’t drain all of the water from the tank, remove as much as you can with a cup, then absorb the rest with towels.
Don’t use steel wool or any other material that’s more abrasive than nylon. Mineral deposits or other buildup could prevent the flapper from sealing. If the flapper isn’t worn, turn the water back on, flush the toilet, and see cleaning the rim solved your problem.
Take the flapper to your local hardware store to find a match. If you can’t find a match, a universal flapper should do the trick. Slide the new flapper’s rubber hooks onto the tube’s ear, then attach the flush chain. Turn the water back on, and see if your toilet flushes normally. If your toilet still won’t flush or flushes weakly, you might have a clog, need to adjust the water level, or have a problem that requires a professional plumber.
To stay on the safe side, it’s wise to spread old towels on the floor around the toilet.
For best results, use a plunger with a flange extension, or an extra ring of rubber that extends from the bell. Flange plungers make a better seal and are more effective than simple bell plungers.
Hot water will also help loosen up the clog.
To use a simple snake, insert the hooked end into the toilet drain, and turn it clockwise down the drain pipe until you encounter resistance. Keep turning it clockwise to clear and hook the obstruction, then pull the snake out of the drain. Have a trash container handy so you can easily dispose of any waste you pull out of the drain.
There’s a plastic tube that sticks out from where the flapper is seated. This is the overflow pipe, and the waterline might be marked there if it’s not engraved inside the tank. If you can’t find a line anywhere, measure 1 inch (2. 5 cm) from the top of the overflow pipe. Mark the pipe, and use this as your water level line. When the tank is full and stops running, the water level should be around the line. If the level is too low, the toilet won’t flush or the flush will be weak. If it’s too high, water will spill into the overflow pipe and the toilet will keep running.
For instance, if the water level is around 3 inches (7. 6 cm) below the line, carefully bend the rod up so the rubber ball to same height as the line. Lifting the ball should engage the fill valve and cause water to run into the tank.
For some models, you’ll need to rotate a small knob or rod to move the float cup up or down. [20] X Research source There might be a clip that you need to pull out in order to adjust the cup, or a screw that needs to be loosened. [21] X Research source If you’re not sure how to adjust your cup, find your toilet’s brand and look online for specific instructions. You might also see a manufacturer’s mark on the float cup or on tube it’s attached to, which is called the fill valve. Check the manufacturer’s website for instructions or troubleshooting tips.
After adjusting the float cup, see if the toilet will flush. If it doesn’t, try repairing or replacing the flush and fill valves. While they conserve energy, dual flush toilets are more complicated than standard toilets. If you’re not sure about attempting repairs on your own, call a plumber.
It’ll be easier to work without water in the tank. The water also needs to be off when you remove the flush and fill valves.
For some models, you’ll also have to unhook a flexible refill tube or arm that connects the flush and fill valves. [26] X Research source Once the cap is removed, rinse it in the sink under warm water. Then place your hand over the fill valve (inside the tank), and slowly turn on the toilet water supply. Turn on the supply just enough that water flows through the valve without spraying all over the place. Buildup in the fill valve could be causing the issue. If you still see any deposits after flushing the fill cap and valve, scrub them away with a toothbrush designated for cleaning.
If it’s in bad shape, you’ll need to replace it or get a new fill valve. Carefully pry the washer out with a flat-head screwdriver, then slide the new washer into place. If you know you’re toilet’s manufacturer and model, you might be able to order the right washer from them. Otherwise, it might be tough to track down the right part, and you’re better off replacing the entire valve.
Place old towels around the floor under the toilet, as a bit of water will drain from the supply line when you remove it. Hold the base of the fill valve with the locking pliers to prevent it from turning as you rotate the coupling nut counterclockwise. After removing the nut, pull away the supply line and lift the fill valve out of the tank. Bring the fill valve to the hardware store to find a match, or order new one from your toilet’s manufacturer. Place the new fill valve inside the tank, align its base with the hole in the bottom of the tank, and secure it to the supply line with the coupling nut. If necessary, reattach the flexible refill tube or arm that runs between the fill and flush valves.
Look under the flush valve and find the silicone seal. The silicone seal does the same job as a standard toilet’s rubber flapper. Ensure it’s seated tightly in the underside of the flush valve, and check it for damage.
Be sure to line up the color-coded partial and full flush buttons correctly. The buttons on the valve line up with pegs attached to buttons on the tank lid. Match the colors or symbols so you don’t install the flush valve backwards. If you can’t find a seal that matches your flush valve, or if the valve itself is damaged, replace the entire unit. Find the correct part for your toilet at a hardware store or order one from the manufacturer.
Some toilets operate on battery power, while others operate on power from the grid. Others may use a battery backup in case grid power is lost. If your toilet is not functioning, check to see if the GFCI receptacle or the circuit breaker is not tripped. If it is, that means that either the outlet was wired incorrectly or the circuit on your bathroom is drawing too much power. In other cases, there could be a short circuit between live and earth. In any case, try resetting the circuit breaker.
Some toilets utilize a multi-stage process for the manual flush. For example, the valve may need to be turned to the “1” position to start the flush, and the “2” position to drain the water. Or, the valve may need to be turned to the “1” position to flush the toilet, and the “2” position to drain the water. Usually, this is present when dual-flush is handled electronically.
