T-Budding is typically used for fruit tree propagation.
Chip Budding is one of the easiest ways to graft, and is particularly good for fruit trees.
Some of the specifics of this process will depend on what kind of tree you are growing and what kind of material you’re using. For example, if you use grafting tape and grafting an apple tree, you had better cover the whole thing with the tape, as the tape will protect the bud from drying, and it will be torn by the bud as it grows. But other materials may not give the same protection, and may be more difficult to tear. Large buds are difficult to fully cover, and can be exposed to air. It depends on the fruit.
The graft must be made after the threat of cold but before the bark of the stock begins slipping (peels off easily). The scion must be dormant (not sprouting) at this time, and should be a twig about a foot long containing three to five buds.
Once the scion really starts to grow and a few new leaves appear above the graft (5 or so healthy leaves), remove any further growths from the rootstock, below the graft. This removal will help the plant thrive with growth on the scion, rather than the rootstock, and has to be done as long as the tree is alive. Otherwise, the rootstock will try to make its own branches; you’ll need to remove them whenever they grow.
Rootstock should be straight, smooth, vertical branches 1–2 inches (2. 5–5. 1 cm) in diameter. Bark grafts should be performed once the rootstock bark has begun slipping (when the bark is easily peeled off in spring). This graft is usually used for instances in which the rootstock is too big for whip grafting.
Rootstock should be straight, smooth, vertical branches 1–2 inches (2. 5–5. 1 cm) in diameter. Cleft grafts should be performed right before the bark of the rootstock starts slipping (being easily peeled off) in spring. This graft is usually used for top working (changing the type of fruit) of a mature tree by being performed on a number of branches.
