5 Ways To Install A Shower

Single unit stalls: The advantage of a single-unit stall is that the project is seamless and very fast. Essentially, you’ll buy one ready-set unit that you’ll secure to the walls and pipes, seal the seams, and you’ll be ready to go. Multi-panel units: Multi-panel units consist of a separate shower pan and two or more individual panels that are glued into place and require each seam or joint to be individually sealed. The advantage of this type of shower stall is that it is easier to handle one piece at a time if you are doing the installation alone.

Draw a rough sketch of the wall with the plumbing and properly indicate those measurements on the sketch. For example: from the corner of the wall to the center of the water control valve might be 18 inches (45. 7 cm). From the floor to the center of the valve is 36 inches (91. 4 cm). Repeat this for all fixtures that will poke through the stall surface. Whatever your measurements are, mark them on your drawing. With a marking pen or pencil, transfer those measurements to the back of the unit where it will be mounted over those plumbing fixtures.

2 or 4 feet (0. 6 or 1. 2 m). level Tub and tile caulking 2 inch (5. 1 cm) hole saw Electric drill and 1/8th inch drill bit Flat head and Phillips screwdrivers Cedar shims Your multi-panel or single-panel shower kit

If your subfloor is wet before you install the panels or the shower pan, you’ll risk wood rot and other serious problems in the future. You need to make sure the area is completely dry before you begin installing the shower components, whatever type of kit you have.

Never install a shower over regular drywall, as any moisture will eventually disintegrate the drywall.

It’s important to drill pilot holes from the back of the stall to the front. This will make it easier when you use the saw to cut the larger holes for the fixtures.

Start cutting the hole from the inside of the shower stall. Put very little pressure against the surface while the hole saw is cutting, and let the saw do the work. Once the saw has cut nearly all the way through the shower stall wall, ease up on the pressure until the hole is complete. It is not unusual to have a little smoking or burning as you cut the hole, which is caused by friction. The hole saw will like be quite hot immediately after the hole is cut. After a minute or two, remove the cutout piece from the hole saw.

The flanges and handles, as well, will be unique to the model, usually quick-install models that will attach quickly and simply. Read the following methods for more specific instructions regarding the installation of multi-panel components, if necessary.

You shouldn’t need to use many shims, and don’t raise the pan above the level of the panels. Only minimal shimming should be needed, if the sub-floor is level. Once the pan is level, it’s a good idea to mark the top of the pan lip where it meets the studs and the shim placement, if you need to move things later.

If you discover them after they dry, you can usually peel them up with your fingernail or a plastic putty knife.

Identify the panel that will be installed over the shower controls and fixtures and set it aside. Use your measurements of the fixtures on the wall where you’re installing the shower and use these measurements to mark and cut the holes for the water control fixtures. Cutting the holes will be easier if you lay the panel across a couple of saw horses for this procedure. Support the panel with a couple of 2 x 4’s or a sheet of plywood so the panel does not bend excessively and break. Cut holes slowly with your hole saw.

Test fit the panels in the order determined to make sure they fit together properly. Some panel kits are manufactured to fit spaces of a specific size, while others are designed to fit within a dimensional “range. ” The kit will specify the dimensions that will accommodate your particular kit.

Exact-fit panels will slide or snap together. Do this in the order specified in the directions that are included with the kit. Variable-fit panels allow you to adjust the coverage along the long wall of your shower area. These panels may have a gap up to several inches between two panels, and are “joined” or covered by a formed vertical cap piece or a molded vertical soap dish type of unit that overlaps the two panels to cover the gap. Once in place and sealed, it appears to be a single panel.

Some kits will require only screws or nails into pre-drilled holes; others will require panel adhesive that is safe for plastic or fiberglass. Some will require both. Refer to your instructions that came with your kit.

If the panel has a large surface area that comes in contact, or if the entire panel comes in contact with the shower wall area, make the bead in the shape of an “X” from corner to corner on the back of the panel. Next, make another bead in the shape of a “+” from top to bottom and right edge to left edge through the middle of the “X” you just made, and a bead along the entire perimeter of the back of the panel, about 2 inches (5. 1 cm) in from the edges of the panels to keep any excess from oozing out when you apply the panels. Apply some adhesive to the shower pan where the panel will make contact. Be sure to squeeze a continuous bead along the pan lip so it forms a watertight seal.

Apply adhesive to the other panels. Repeat as above, then press the remaining panels into place in the order used in the test fitting. Be sure to follow the order provided with the shower kit. Remove any excess adhesive that has oozed out from pressing the panels in place before the adhesive has a chance to dry. Use the recommended solvent or water as noted in the “cleanup” portion on the adhesive tube. After several hours (when adhesive is dry) caulk all seams and joints for a watertight seal.

Do not completely tighten screws or pound nails in all the way until all panels are in place. This allows you to adjust the panels before fully securing them to the walls.

If you’re installing doors on a full tub, you’ll need to measure out and center where you want the threshold track to be placed on the front lip. It will need to be centered, so take the width of the lip of the tub and mark the center point. For stand-up showers, the track may just slide into place over the shower pan, or may be already locked into place, if you’re using a single-unit kit. Always defer to the instructions included in the kit.

Firmly set the bottom track into place over the bead of caulk. Make sure the underside of the track makes contact with the caulking. If not, run a separate bead along the center of the underside of the track.

There may be no wall tracks for the kit on some showers. If there are none, disregard this step and move onto inserting the door itself.

In some shower kits, the track bars are variable sizes, meaning that they’re sold larger than what you may need, and you can cut them to size accordingly. If so, cut the tracks using a hacksaw and file them flush before installing. [8] X Research source

Some doors need to have the rollers installed before popping the door into the place. If so, most of them will just pop right into place. Read the instructions.